Power Tools


amber xtreme.jpgSome new things are immediately, obviously useful, some reveal their brilliance in time (e.g. many Apple devices in my experience). A month ago I posted about Ponk, a subscription service that sends themed perfumery raw material samples by mail. They kindly sent more. This time the Module 5 collection of small samples, as ever beautifully packaged, was of woody-ambers, which have seen an extraordinary arms race in recent years. With a smell character memorably described to me by Charles Sell as “glorified rubbing alcohol” —Ponk’s own description, Power Tools, is no less aptwoody ambers are now everywhere, mostly in masculines but also used as a sort of fluorescent black light to illuminate feminine fragrances from the inside. The old materials (by old I mean twenty years ago) were not shy. Cedramber, Amberketal and Spirambrene were solidly powerful stuff. Then the chemists got busy and Karanal came along, discovered accidentally by…

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Too hot to smell

ANd everyone wonders why I ONLY wear EdT’s in the Florida SUN!!! 😉


It’s been alarmingly hot these last few days in Athens, last Fri on the way back from work my scooter was showing an ambient 43C near the airport, soon after this pic was taken. Impossible in this heat to drink red wine or smell perfumes: everything smells like it’s falling apart and wilting. More soon, global warming permitting.

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Dame Perfumery : Lime, Gardenia and Benzoin

The Perfume Chronicles

Created by : Jeffrey Dame

Date : 2015

Genre : Gardenia soliflore

Concentration : eau de toilette

I believe that I have a lazy streak and I think that’s probably why I love legible perfumes… I like to wear perfumes that are easy and recognizable.  And so when I tried Dame Perfumery’s Lime, Gardenia and Benzoin, I got it immediately! It’s a simple lapel gardenia or as the French would say, “une boutonnière”.

I’ve always loved gardenias. When I left home, a gardenia was the first plant I owned. The small white flowers were so fragrant and beautiful, I immediately fell in love. Unfortunately, that plant never flowered again after I took it home from the florist shop and so I think from that moment on, I’ve always been searching for that distinctive gardenia fragrance.  I thought I had found it when I read about Arquiste Boutonnière No. 7, but no.  The Arquiste version is not…

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New Release: Black Flower Mexican Vanilla and the Launch of Dame Perfumery Scottsdale

Here’s a great review by The Scented Hound on Dame Perfumery Scottsdale’s new launch and feature Edp Black Flower Mexican Vanilla! (My bottle is on it’s way!)

The Scented Hound

Dame Perfumery LogoI guess it’s only fitting that on Labor Day I should write about one of the hardest working men in the fragrance industry, Jeffrey Dame.  Together with his son, Cullen, they have founded Dame Perfumery Scottsdale.  Jeffrey’s roots are deep within the fragrance industry.  Over 35 years ago he started his perfumery career in the buying office at Neiman-Marcus in Dallas and spent a few decades in New York and Paris working in fragrance for Estee Lauder, Parfums Caron Paris and with the American fashion designers Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass and Geoffrey Beene to name a few.  So it’s not surprising that this new venture has culminated with him combining his knowledge and love of fragrance with his love of family.

Dame Perfumery Collection of 6 Eau de Toilette Fragrances Dame Perfumery’s Collection of 6 Eau de Toilette Fragrances

As part of the initial collection, Dame Perfumery has launched six creations for women, all of which are eau de…

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Bad To The Bone

The Alembicated Genie


–  a review of Kinski by Kinski

In the normal state of affairs, I tend to shun celebrity scents like the plagues upon humanity they are. I find most of them poorly composed according to the ten-second sale philosophy (usually by Coty, who once upon a storied time never catered to the lowest common denominator), or created to exploit Hot Celebrity X, Y or Z’s personal brand of ‘style’.

But every once in a blue moon, a perfume comes along that seems to wrap that idiosyncratic ‘style’ and tie it all up with a beautiful bow to add another layer of definition to an iconic figurehead. I could mention Etat Libre d’Orange’s Eau de Protection and Like This, for Spanish firebrand Rossy de Palma and Tilda Swinton, patron saint of Perpetual Cool, or even the few perfumes I’ve tried by Dita Von Teese, all of which were made with a…

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The Problem with Parfum Prices

The Smelly Vagabond

Recently, I’ve become rather perplexed at how the various concentrations of a perfume are priced. For many, the extrait (also known as parfum) concentrations of perfumes are often deemed to be the best of all concentrations, because they are plusher, richer and fuller etc. etc. Obviously, this varies depending on one’s personal preferences. But I’m not so much interested in discussing anyone’s preferences regarding concentrations as I am with the pricing strategies of companies with regard to the various perfume concentrations.

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